Timber Profiles

CHH19mm

Coffs Harbour Hardwoods (CHH)19mm Tongue & Groove flooring is the most common flooring for laying over joists, ply, particleboard & existing timber floors. This type of flooring is a solid hardwood timber flooring designed to be nailed to a permanent substrate. It can be layed directly over concrete with the correct moisture prevention barrier in place, however Coffs Harbour Hardwoods does not recommend this and would prefer the use of a plywood or battened sub-floor.

CHH has gone to great lengths to produce a hardwood floor that is crafted with attention to detail and quality that is second to none. This product is suitable for use in both commercial & residential applications that will enhance the look of your property; unlike some floors it i€™s a real solid timber floor with a 6mm wear layer so you will get to sand it again and again.

Size & Lengths

  • Timber sizes: 60x19mm, 80x19mm, 130x19mm End Matched
  • Lengths are 0.900mm up to 6m
  • We supply random lengths.

Applications

CHH 19mm T&G flooring can be used in these areas:

  • Directly over a concrete slab with a moisture content of no more than 5.5%. (This method is possible but not recommended due to a number of problems mainly due to moisture when working with concrete slabs. We recommend that the concrete slab should be sealed when laying timber floors over the top, regardless of the flooring’s substrate).
  • Directly over existing timber floors with a moisture content no more than 14%
  • Directly over Plywood or Particleboard, sanding of these surfaces ensures a better gluing result.

Installation Method

Please refer to the (ATFA=Australian Timber Flooring Association) AFTA_installation guide

floor-nailing

 


 

CHH 13mm Overlay

Coffs Harbour Hardwoods (CHH)13mm overlay flooring is a product specifically designed for using as a direct stick tongue & groove floor over concrete, ply, particleboard & existing timber floors. The use of 13mm flooring benefits those with height restrictions or don’€™t have bearers & joists to work with.

CHH has gone to great lengths to produce a hardwood floor that is crafted with attention to detail and quality that is second to none. This product is suitable for use in both commercial & residential properties that will enhance the look of your property ; unlike some floors it’€™s a real timber floor with a 6mm wear layer so you will get to sand it again and again.

Size & Lengths

  • Timber size 80mm x 13mm
  • Lengths are 0.400mm up to 3m
  • All at random lengths

Applications

CHH 13mm overlay can be used in these areas:

  • Directly over a concrete slab with a moisture content of no more than 5.5%. (This method is possible but not recommended due to a number of problems mainly due to moisture when working with concrete slabs).
  • Directly over existing timber floors with a moisture content no more than 14%
  • Directly over Plywood or Particleboard, sanding of these surfaces ensures a better gluing result.

Installation Method

Before starting it is important to ensure that the surface has first been cleaned of dirt and any debris. Your subfloor should be level, using a 1.5m straight edge it should not exceed 3mm. Make sure there is no moisture problems in the subfloor before beginning, if so use a moisture sealant. According to the DPI of NSW (forestry) and the ATFA acclimatisation of floorboards prior to fitting is only recommended when there is a difference between the moisture content of the floorboards and the average moisture content expected in the building after occupation of that building.

CHH 13mm Overlay flooring should be glued down using a V-Notch trowel and by using a polyurethane adhesive. It is recommended that you use a professional floor layer to lay this product.

Step 1 Preparation

For laying over different surfaces, please abide by the following:

CONCRETE SLABS

  • Firstly inspect your slab; you’ll need to determine the level of moisture present in the slab. You can do this by using a protrometer, the moisture content should read below 5.5% and you should test several areas.
  • Your concrete slab needs to be sealed against the dangers of rising damp. You can do this by applying an epoxy resin moisture barrier, or by installing an impervious polythene membrane under the slab (AS2820-4996) this method will not provide a stop to moisture that is being released by the slab. (CHH recommends the use of ply over concrete)
  • When preparing the slab place a straight edge down, there should be no more than a 3mm deviance between two high points over a 1.5m area. If the deviance is greater than 3mm a levelling compound should be applied.

FIXING A PLYWOOD SUBFLOOR TO CONCRETE SLAB

  • Once the slab has cured and it has been tested for excess moisture (no more than 5.5%) and has had a preventative moisture barrier put in place, (your moisture barrier should be an epoxy resin moisture barrier or a 0.2mm polythene waterproof membrane) then you are ready to fix your plywood subfloor.
  • When using a polythene waterproof membrane you should lap joints 150mm and tape using 50mm duct tape. The edges should finish up the wall underneath the skirting.
  • Plywood should be a structural grade, recommended thickness is 15mm however 12mm can be used if the slab has been given extra attention to ensure the levels are even.
  • Use 2400x1200x15mm(or 12mm) plywood sheets. Lay the sheets at 45° or in a brick bond pattern at 90° to the floor board direction. Leave a gap of about 6mm and 12mm at walls.
  • Fix the plywood base to the slab using a 32mm ramset drive pin. Nail pattern should be maximum 500mm centres, minimum 100mm from the edges.
  • Start with the centre of the panel and work toward edges to achieve a flat result.

EXPOSED TIMBER JOISTS

  • Lay an appropriate plywood or particleboard panel subfloor down which meets local council requirements. Panels should be laid at 90° to the joists. Ensure that all joints meet at the centre of joists. Stagger as many joints as possible. At the start of every second row use a half panel then continue with full panels. The surface of the panels must be free of wax and dirt. Panels should be sanded prior to laying. Refer to panel manufacturer’€™s instructions.

EXISTING TIMBER FLOORS

When renovating over an existing timber floor

  • Installation can be made directly over the existing floor. Preferably at 90°.
  • Replace any defective boards before installation of new floor.
  • You may need to sand the existing floor to obtain an even surface.

Step 2 Installation

  1. Coffs Hardwoods 13mm overlay can be laid as soon as your preparation of your subfloor is completed. Please ensure Wet Trades are complete prior to starting installation.
  2. Upon delivery of your floor, check for any damage during transportation & also any machining or other problems you may find with the flooring. IF YOU FIND ANY PROBLEMS YOU MUST RING US THE MANUFACTURER AND REPORT IT, DO NOT LAY.
  3. Acclimatising- According to the ATFA (Australian Timber Floors Association) acclimatisation of floorboards prior to fitting is only recommended when there is a difference between the moisture content of the floorboards and the average moisture content expected in the building after occupation of that building.
  4. With the aid of a string line lay the first row 12mm from the wall-ensure the groove faces the wall.
  5. Spread a workable amount of adhesive using a notched trowel. Use a polyurethane adhesive such as Bostik Ultraset or Selleys Directstick & follow the manufacturers instructions.
  6. You can space each nail at approximately 300mm along each board. Use 19mm Cleats for 12mm plywood or 25mm cleats for 15mm.
  7. When laying the 13mm overlay push the boards tight up against the last row nailed. This can be done with the assistance of a helper or by levering with a chisel that has a corner anchored in the sub floor. Coffs Harbour Hardwoods recommends the use of a (overlay style) powernailer system.
  8. Since the last 1-2 rows cannot be secret nailed, face nail them. With the last row leave an expansion gap of 12mm from the wall and ensure each board is snug by levering with a jimmy bar and chocking.
  9. Do not start sanding for at least 72 hours after fixing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beautiful, Natural & Timeless…